Tuesday 16 October 2012

The True Grit of True Pilgrims


Doucement
Écouter le corps
Tranquille

These are instructions that M, from Bordeaux, France, gave to me as we walked together. M had designated herself to be my walking coach, to slow me down so that my legs and feet could heel. Stacy, a gazelle, was sent ahead with F, from South Africa (another gazelle). Thus I spent two days walking with M, speaking only French, and learning to 'listen to my body, listen to my feet. Tranquille! Doucement!' And occasionally, when I would wonder ahead, daydreaming, and miss a yellow directional arrow (flèche jaune) I would hear a whistle and 'Julia', as M called me down to earth and back to the camino. It had not occurred to me that I would become more proficient with French while in Spain!

This morning, when I woke in the albergue in Puebla de Sanabria (Casa Luz) I realized my feet and legs, for the first time in several days, did not hurt! Waking Stacy it was my turn to say 'let's go' Je suis prêt.

The walk today, from Puebla de Sanabria, to Padornela was only 25km, but it was for the most part up hill and through beautiful forest. It was somewhat rainy and cold but the surroundings so beautiful that we did not mind the weather.

As we head north the weather continues to become more chill, and we find ourselves wearing several layers of clothes in an attempt to stay warm. The landscape also continues to change...fist farmers fields, crops ready to harvest; then forests, the deciduous trees adorning their fall finery, then with the aid of the wind carpeting the forest floor with gold and crimson.

We came to a crossroad today. The official route headed up a mountain trail, but signs had been placed in front, and directional arrows guided pilgrims to stay upon the carretera (a paved road way, usually a major highway). Not to be deterred by a sign of little walking stick-man with a slash over top, we decided to head over the mountain. This decision led to a an utterance by Stacy that has likely never been heard before (and is not likely to be heard again): "Wow! We're in a blasting zone! Fun!"

Fortunately (but unfortunate for Spain) much of the major road work that began over the past few years has come to a screeching halt. So we encountered no one (and no dynamite) as we traversed a rather unpredictable (but beautiful) path today.

Though we didn't know where we were most of the day, and imagined even emerging somewhere in Portugal, we were very impressed when we emerged from the forest in Padornela; our planned destination.

Maybe we are true pilgrims after all?

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