Sunday, 23 September 2012

On The Roman Road




Juli: I felt as though I was in Africa. The rolling hills as far as the eye could see, covered in dry, golden grass, dotted with green, sprawling trees, their branches stretched out as though reaching for any trace of water. My imagination was running away with me, or so I thought, until Janine and Fransa sat with us that night at dinner and Janine said "if a giraffe had walked out from the trees I would have been sure I was at home in South Africa rather than in Spain."

Though we walk an average of 23 km a day the terrain varies greatly in appearance. Outside Monesterio we walked past Iberico pig farms that reminded me of the English country farms, fenced with high, dry pack stone walls. 'Happy as a pig' must come from Iberican pigs by the way. They live in beautiful country side, shaded by acorn trees. Stacy and I were picking which enclosures we would be quite content to live in, even if it meant being with a few pigs.

We've also walked through stretches that seemed like the west coast of British Columbia and several kilometers of land that could quite easily have been the rolling (and late summer dry and golden) hills of southern Alberta.

The past 2 days has been mainly vineyards and olive groves. Much of the road has been an old roman road used to ferry marble and quartz to important settlements in times past. A road laid with temptation for a recovering rock-aholic, I reminded myself how foolish to fill my pack with rocks (no matter how pretty) when, to lighten my load further, I had left my pants and hair brush, in Monesterio.

Though we ache as we finally rest at night our bodies are becoming used to rising early and walking. Miraculous how quickly every muscle seems to recover.

A few people we've met have not fared so well. M from France had a blister by the 2nd day that has spread over the back of her heel making it angry, raw and infected. S from Korea thought this route was a 'tourist route' and brought heavy camera equipment to record her trip. The bottom of her feet are covered with blisters and she walks with slow, careful steps because of the pain. Both M and S have taken the bus to Merida today and hope to return walking after a few days of recovery. And F from Austria with his fantastic (true?) stories of survival has seemingly disappeared. (Though we don't walk together there is a support system between pilgrims as we cross paths at albergues, at meals and along the road).

Others we have met return home soon and will come back next year to continue walking. It is a luxury (or insanity?) to be able to take so much time away from 'regular life' and walk this path in one go.

I'm getting used to sleeping in dorm rooms, though it is nice to have a room to ourselves tonight. A clean, simple albergue in Villafranca. Great deal at 12 euros, including breakfast (likely toastada, jus and cafe con leche...toast, juice, and coffee with milk).

There are experiences I hope to repeat...a meal of Iberico ham ('died and gone to heaven' food), swimming with a turtle (mostly the turtle tried to swim as far from me as possible while I tried to swim as far from him as possible) and eating grapes freshly picked from the vine (a gift from the farmer).

... And then there was the time we were sprayed with manure.

Thursday, 20 September 2012

Nesting in Spain





(For Ayden, Darius and Eli)

I first noticed them in Almaden, the kind of thing you know you are seeing, but can't quite believe is real. In El Real De La Jara they were on top of towers and pillars. The church bell tower was crowned with the biggest one I'd seen yet. Until today. Monesterio, and the ancient church in the centre of town. Nests. Huge nests.

Que es? I finally asked.

Storks. They come to Spain to nest, then fly south to Africa.

If I could think of a way to climb up I'd have a beautiful view of the stars and a comfy bed for the night.

Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Almaden to El Real De La Jara


Almaden to El Real De La Jara

Our walk today was from Almaden to El Real De La Jara; about 17 km through farms and park land.

The dogs I had been warned about before I left home barely looked up as we passed. Pigs being fed gave new meaning to the phrase 'hungry as a pig' and little piglets squealed when they saw us. I don't know if they thought we were carrying food or if they were asking us to save them from becoming food. Maybe they were just being pigs?

I hadn't realized before that animals have different 'voices'. Sheep calling to each other all sound different. So do the goats, the cows and the dogs. The quiet does that, you hear things you hadn't noticed before.

During the day Stacy and I walk within sight of each other but quietly, lost in our own thoughts, music, or audio books. By afternoon we are with a group of people who are becoming our friends. Austria, France, Spain, Italy, South Africa, Germany, and Canada, all under one roof.

Monique from France taught me how to lance the blisters on my feet. Agatha from Spain shared cookies. Franci and Janeen from South Africa have shared stories and laughter. Sharleen from Canada shared chocolate at a perfect moment in our second day of walking. Marco from Spain endured our 'stalking' him when we kept getting lost and became determined to keep him in sight!

Slowly I am hearing stories of why others are walking. I have to listen carefully because the words meld together when I don't really understand the language. What I have found though is that whether literally or not, each person walks alone, each for their own reason.

"To Walk Further, Carry Less"




We're sitting in a cafe in Almaden as I write. Stacy and I have been advised that the third day is the toughest so we decided to take it easy today, with cafe con leche, tostada and Spanish news; a slower day, and time for the blisters on my feet to heal.

I read a book titled 'To Walk Far, Carry Less' (Jean-Christie Ashmore) before I left for the camino. I read but I didn't listen. Despite tossing out half the contents of my backpack it is still too heavy. Today before I resume walking, I need to purge more.

Gone already is the $200 water purifier, left at the albergue in Guillena, a gift for whoever wants to carry it, and in Castiblanco I have left sandals. Sorting through my deluxe medical kit I've removed all but items for my feet. Make-up, skin cream (except sun screen) all tossed in the garbage.

My feet show that my load has been too heavy. Blisters cover my toes, and had to be lanced so the skin can heal.

I've learned an important lesson. To walk further you really must carry less. And don't forget to check your pockets (and soul) for garbage. The lighter your load, the further you go.

(Full disclosure: our slower day in Almaden came about as a result of a vote. Blisters were given 2 votes and Stacy and I each had 1 vote. It was 4-to-1 in favor of a taxi to Almaden. Our taxi driver was the dissenting vote. He had another fare to Sevilla and was going to be late if he took us all the way to Almaden. Stacy smiled at him and we won. We did however endure the fastest taxi ride I've ever had, our bottoms lifting from the seat as we sped over hills. (Descriptions of the 30km trek from other pilgrims confirmed we chose wisely).